LAST SECRETS  

A shoe last is the technical basis for every type of footwear. Its creation involves utilising a combination of traditional craftsmanship, modern expertise, creative skills, and cutting-edge technologies.

This book sheds light on the role of shoe lasts, presents the empirical knowledge of last designers, and highlights the key points that shoe companies must measure and check in order to minimise the risks related to lasts and ensure that they provide their customers with the right footwear for their needs. It also takes a step-by-step look at shoe lasts, from their physical and geometric design to their manufacture, explores sizing systems, and compares the mean foot dimensions of the populations of France and China.

A publication of CTC, a French research centre recognised for its expertise throughout the global footwear industry.

Also available in French

INTRODUCTION

THE FOOT
Anatomy
Basic foot measurements
Morphology and fitting properties
Physiology and fitting properties
Specific features of the fitting properties of China’s population

GLOSSARY OF SHOE LAST TERMS

DESIGN OF A SHOE LAST
Last model
Design method
Lasts made using CAD/CAM technologies
3D CAD of lasts
Bespoke lasts
Last maker reference points
CTC machinery
Calf girth
SIZING SYSTEMS
Length calculation
Size codification
"Width" calculation
Grading

PRODUCTION
Materials
Manufacture of blanks
Roughing
Last hinges
Fine turning
Additive manufacturing
Plating

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