Haut de page
FERMER
En poursuivant votre navigation sur ce site, vous acceptez l'utilisation de cookies pour vous proposer des services et des offres adaptés à vos centres d'intérêts.
NewsletterFacebookTwitterScoop.It!InstagramPinterestGoogle+RSS
myCTC.fr
Accueil




myCTC.fr  >  Forums  >  Questions / Réponses (FAQ)  >  Maroquinerie  >  How is leather goods produced?
myCTC.fr  >  Forums  >  Questions / Réponses (FAQ)  >  Maroquinerie  >  How is leather goods produced?

Réponses du sujet "How is leather goods produced?"

Répondre à ce sujet   Faire une recherche
AuteurSujet : How is leather goods produced?
myCTC.fr
Inscrit le : 30/01/2002
Messages : 1967
Localisation : Lyon
Posté le 28/11/2014 à 10:57:16            

How is leather goods produced?

The category of fine leather goods is large. It includes bags for ladies or men, pocket items (wallets, card cases, etc.), sports and travel goods (attaché cases, suitcases, cases,backpacks, etc.), saddlery-harness articles (saddles,harness, kneepads for riders, etc.), items for hunting and fishing (cartridge pouches, rifle-cases, baskets, etc.), and also belts, wrist-watches and pets' accessories.
These are the accessories most carried and worn in everyday life and yet few people are aware of the many operations involved in producing them.
Let’s take as an example the manufacture of a leather article with a lining made of synthetic material.

 

CTC

Leather goods
Discovering leather goods

The term leather goods covers a great variety of products
The term "leather goods" covers a great variety of products.

 


Manufacture 

 

Pattern cutting


PATTERN CUTTING: The model is chosen from among a great number ofpatterns presented by various fashion coordinators.
The selection criteria are defined by the whims of fashion and the purpose for which the product is intended. The pattern- or model-maker creates the flat model, eithermanually or using CAD, that will be used in the making of the press-knives used for cutting.

 

Store






STORE: The list of the materials required is given to the storekeeper in charge of putting them together (leather, textiles, reinforcements,etc.). The hides go through a rigorous selection procedure.
The panels are joined according to their position on the bag so as to give the same colour, same grain, etc.

 

 

Cutting





CUTTING
: Once any faults in the leather have been eliminated or carefully positioned the cutter starts cutting the pieces by hand, on a press, or by automatic cutting. He has to take into account the lending (direction of stretching) and choose the best position so as to get the most out of the available surface.

 

Colouring






COLOURING
: To conceal the raw edge of the leather each piece is covered with a layer of dye. Tests are carried out beforehand to determine the colouring that most closely matches that of the leather.

 

Splitting








SPLITTING
: Splitting is vital to obtain the ideal thickness and to allow components to be put together in the best way possible. If necessary, each piece of leather is divided in two horizontally.

 

Preparing








PREPARING
: Skiving, which consists in regularly thinning the edges either manually or mechanically, makes it easier to carry out edge turning and binding. A "turned edge" is the term used to describe an edge that has been covered with adhesive and turned over on itself. Creasing is used to thin a cut edge or underline a stitch. The filet is produced by hot pressing, manually or mechanically.

 

Assembling






ASSEMBLING
: Assembling pre-glued pieces calls for accuracy and skill from the operator; it remains a manual operation. Once the pieces have been super-imposed, an overcut tool is used to eliminate any excess material and to obtain sharp edges.

 

Hand sewing





HAND SEWING: Hand-sewn seams provide certain products with a traditional appearance and reliability (long life, strength): using an awl, the leather is perforated to enable a needle with coated thread to sew the leather. This operation calls for skill from the operator: the stitches have to be as regular as if they were pricked by a machine. Nevertheless they have a special appearance which is difficult to obtain mechanically.

 

Closing and lasting






CLOSING AND LASTINGStraps, shoulder straps, gussets, canvas or PVC linings,zippers, edges, etc. are stitched using sewing machines.Whether the machine used is a flat bed machine, a cylinder bed machine or a post-bed machine, it allows for greater regularity in the stitches. Some articles may be machined in considerable quantities due to the special features of the various frames. For example, the gussets are assembled on the cylinder bed machine which facilitates sewing up.

 

Fastenig accessories






FASTENING ACCESSORIES: The parts thus assembled turn flat, two-dimensional pieces into three-dimensional articles. The product is almost finished. Buckles, press buttons or clasps remain to be fastened. As in the field of personal adornment, the word "jewellery" is used to refer to accessories made of brushed metal, chromed metal or goldplated metal that decorate fine leather goods.

 

Finishing






FINISHINGFinishing is a delicate operation requiring great skill. It gives the final touch to a product. The various parts are overlaid to create a section which has to be sanded between the layers of dye. The article is wrapped in canvas bags or tissue paper ready for delivery.

 

 


Types of binding

 

SADDLE STITCHING


SADDLE STITCHING
 (saddlery)
Examples: belt, briefcase, harness
Upper and under element with raw edges

 

COMBINED CEMENT AND STITCHING BINDING




COMBINED CEMENT AND STITCHING BINDING
 (saddlery, leather goods)
Examples: assembly of gussets of ladies' bags, belts, small bags
Folded upper element Raw edge under element

 

TURNED EDGE BINDING


TURNED EDGE BINDING
 (small leather articles)
Examples: wallet, purseUpper element folded onto lower part

 

FLAT BINDING



FLAT BINDING 
(leather goods)
Examples: articles made of canvas and leather to give a nice finish
Upper and lower sections assembled by a flat binding

 

 

PASTED ASSEMBLY


PASTED ASSEMBLY
 (leather goods)
Examples: evening bag – small luxury bag

 

 

ENGLISH BINDING ASSEMBLY



ENGLISH BINDING ASSEMBLY
 (leather goods)
Examples: articles made of canvas

 

 

ASSEMBLY TURNED OVER WITHOUT EDGING, CALLED “ORDINARY”



ASSEMBLY TURNED OVER WITHOUT EDGING, CALLED “ORDINARY”
 
(leather goods, saddlery)
Examples: standard quality articles

 

 

TURNED-EDGE BINDING WITH WELT, CORD OR EDGING




TURNED-EDGE BINDING WITH WELT, CORD OR EDGING

(leather goods, saddlery)
Examples: large articles (travel bags) Emphasises the purity of the line; decorative

 

 




TURNED OVER BINDING ASSEMBLY CALLED “SEAM ANGLE”


TURNED OVER BINDING ASSEMBLY CALLED “SEAM ANGLE”
 (saddlery)
Examples: hand-sewn or machine-sewn (cases, purses, jewel cases, etc.)

 

 

 

TURNED OVER BINDING, KNOWN ALSO AS

TURNED OVER BINDING, KNOWN ALSO AS "BETWEEN GRAIN AND FLESH SIDE" 
(saddlery)
Examples: dog collar, umbrella handle, riding-crop, cane, pipe

 

 




"A L’ALLEMANDE" ASSEMBLY 
(saddlery,
leather goods)
Example: allows the extension of a bag

 

 

 

 


Description of a shoulder bag

 

Description of a shoulder bag

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Download comics
"Discovering leather goods"

 

+ Also find our other Comics :

 

  •                 
    myCTC.fr
    Posté le 28/11/2014 à 10:57:16

    How is leather goods produced?

    The category of fine leather goods is large. It includes bags for ladies or men, pocket items (wallets, card cases, etc.), sports and travel goods (attaché cases, suitcases, cases,backpacks, etc.), saddlery-harness articles (saddles,harness, kneepads for riders, etc.), items for hunting and fishing (cartridge pouches, rifle-cases, baskets, etc.), and also belts, wrist-watches and pets' accessories.
    These are the accessories most carried and worn in everyday life and yet few people are aware of the many operations involved in producing them.
    Let’s take as an example the manufacture of a leather article with a lining made of synthetic material.

     

    CTC

    Leather goods
    Discovering leather goods

    The term leather goods covers a great variety of products
    The term "leather goods" covers a great variety of products.

     


    Manufacture 

     

    Pattern cutting


    PATTERN CUTTING: The model is chosen from among a great number ofpatterns presented by various fashion coordinators.
    The selection criteria are defined by the whims of fashion and the purpose for which the product is intended. The pattern- or model-maker creates the flat model, eithermanually or using CAD, that will be used in the making of the press-knives used for cutting.

     

    Store






    STORE: The list of the materials required is given to the storekeeper in charge of putting them together (leather, textiles, reinforcements,etc.). The hides go through a rigorous selection procedure.
    The panels are joined according to their position on the bag so as to give the same colour, same grain, etc.

     

     

    Cutting





    CUTTING
    : Once any faults in the leather have been eliminated or carefully positioned the cutter starts cutting the pieces by hand, on a press, or by automatic cutting. He has to take into account the lending (direction of stretching) and choose the best position so as to get the most out of the available surface.

     

    Colouring






    COLOURING
    : To conceal the raw edge of the leather each piece is covered with a layer of dye. Tests are carried out beforehand to determine the colouring that most closely matches that of the leather.

     

    Splitting








    SPLITTING
    : Splitting is vital to obtain the ideal thickness and to allow components to be put together in the best way possible. If necessary, each piece of leather is divided in two horizontally.

     

    Preparing








    PREPARING
    : Skiving, which consists in regularly thinning the edges either manually or mechanically, makes it easier to carry out edge turning and binding. A "turned edge" is the term used to describe an edge that has been covered with adhesive and turned over on itself. Creasing is used to thin a cut edge or underline a stitch. The filet is produced by hot pressing, manually or mechanically.

     

    Assembling






    ASSEMBLING
    : Assembling pre-glued pieces calls for accuracy and skill from the operator; it remains a manual operation. Once the pieces have been super-imposed, an overcut tool is used to eliminate any excess material and to obtain sharp edges.

     

    Hand sewing





    HAND SEWING: Hand-sewn seams provide certain products with a traditional appearance and reliability (long life, strength): using an awl, the leather is perforated to enable a needle with coated thread to sew the leather. This operation calls for skill from the operator: the stitches have to be as regular as if they were pricked by a machine. Nevertheless they have a special appearance which is difficult to obtain mechanically.

     

    Closing and lasting






    CLOSING AND LASTINGStraps, shoulder straps, gussets, canvas or PVC linings,zippers, edges, etc. are stitched using sewing machines.Whether the machine used is a flat bed machine, a cylinder bed machine or a post-bed machine, it allows for greater regularity in the stitches. Some articles may be machined in considerable quantities due to the special features of the various frames. For example, the gussets are assembled on the cylinder bed machine which facilitates sewing up.

     

    Fastenig accessories






    FASTENING ACCESSORIES: The parts thus assembled turn flat, two-dimensional pieces into three-dimensional articles. The product is almost finished. Buckles, press buttons or clasps remain to be fastened. As in the field of personal adornment, the word "jewellery" is used to refer to accessories made of brushed metal, chromed metal or goldplated metal that decorate fine leather goods.

     

    Finishing






    FINISHINGFinishing is a delicate operation requiring great skill. It gives the final touch to a product. The various parts are overlaid to create a section which has to be sanded between the layers of dye. The article is wrapped in canvas bags or tissue paper ready for delivery.

     

     


    Types of binding

     

    SADDLE STITCHING


    SADDLE STITCHING
     (saddlery)
    Examples: belt, briefcase, harness
    Upper and under element with raw edges

     

    COMBINED CEMENT AND STITCHING BINDING




    COMBINED CEMENT AND STITCHING BINDING
     (saddlery, leather goods)
    Examples: assembly of gussets of ladies' bags, belts, small bags
    Folded upper element Raw edge under element

     

    TURNED EDGE BINDING


    TURNED EDGE BINDING
     (small leather articles)
    Examples: wallet, purseUpper element folded onto lower part

     

    FLAT BINDING



    FLAT BINDING 
    (leather goods)
    Examples: articles made of canvas and leather to give a nice finish
    Upper and lower sections assembled by a flat binding

     

     

    PASTED ASSEMBLY


    PASTED ASSEMBLY
     (leather goods)
    Examples: evening bag – small luxury bag

     

     

    ENGLISH BINDING ASSEMBLY



    ENGLISH BINDING ASSEMBLY
     (leather goods)
    Examples: articles made of canvas

     

     

    ASSEMBLY TURNED OVER WITHOUT EDGING, CALLED “ORDINARY”



    ASSEMBLY TURNED OVER WITHOUT EDGING, CALLED “ORDINARY”
     
    (leather goods, saddlery)
    Examples: standard quality articles

     

     

    TURNED-EDGE BINDING WITH WELT, CORD OR EDGING




    TURNED-EDGE BINDING WITH WELT, CORD OR EDGING

    (leather goods, saddlery)
    Examples: large articles (travel bags) Emphasises the purity of the line; decorative

     

     




    TURNED OVER BINDING ASSEMBLY CALLED “SEAM ANGLE”


    TURNED OVER BINDING ASSEMBLY CALLED “SEAM ANGLE”
     (saddlery)
    Examples: hand-sewn or machine-sewn (cases, purses, jewel cases, etc.)

     

     

     

    TURNED OVER BINDING, KNOWN ALSO AS

    TURNED OVER BINDING, KNOWN ALSO AS "BETWEEN GRAIN AND FLESH SIDE" 
    (saddlery)
    Examples: dog collar, umbrella handle, riding-crop, cane, pipe

     

     




    "A L’ALLEMANDE" ASSEMBLY 
    (saddlery,
    leather goods)
    Example: allows the extension of a bag

     

     

     

     


    Description of a shoulder bag

     

    Description of a shoulder bag

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Download comics
    "Discovering leather goods"

     

    + Also find our other Comics :

     

Répondre à ce sujet   Faire une recherche